The Wine Epicure by James Barlow

I have just returned from spending two weeks in Bordeaux for the En Primeur campaign with my Spec’s crew. This vintage was imperative for us to taste at as many Chateau as possible as there was a fair amount of variation mainly throughout the Right Bank as Merlot struggled with early and late rains in the season which caused mildew, millerandage, and coulure issues in the vineyards. These issues led to a 20-30% reduction in yield for Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon, on the other hand, did not have nearly the same issues which led to really nice wines from the Left Bank and often more than usual Cabernet Sauvignon added into the wines on the Right Bank.

Lower yield didn’t necessarily mean lower quality, as some amazing wines have been made in this vintage. With around 30% price reduction almost across the board in Bordeaux, it is a PERFECT time to start stocking up on a vintage that is readily drinkable now but will also age for many years. It’s a vintage that the younger consumer can afford to fall in love with!

There is a lot of variation in quality from Chateau to Chateau and region to region so it was imperative to taste as much as possible at the Chateau.

That said, the wines of this vintage are expressive and well-balanced with a penchant for lower alcohol and vibrant acidity.

AT THE MERCY OF GOD:

THE WEATHER

Winter between January and March was rather mild, but the biggest issue of the vintage was that Bordeaux saw the highest rainfall since 2000 with 35 inches between October 1^st and March 31^st.  Rows became waterlogged, making it difficult for vignerons to efficiently do their work. Sprays and working the soil became complicated tasks which hindered the vineyards.

Spring offered early and even budding with vegetation growth slowed by the excess of water. The overall climate was cool and wet which caused flowering to be slow and uneven. Between May 22^nd through June 13^th there were definitive issues with Coulure and Millerandage in old or virus affected Merlot. There was also an unprecedented issue with Downy Mildew Pressure with early and aggressive outbreaks.

Summer led to an uneven and long drawn out Veraison from July 22^nd to August 15^th. Ripening occurred first in the summer weather conditions, then secondly in the stormy, rainy weather in Fall. Dry whites were picked mostly before the rains, so you will find some extremely high-quality white wines this vintage. Merlot was picked between September 18^th through October 7^th while Cabernets were harvested between the 30^th of September through October 16^th. Rain came once again on September 20^th so both Merlot and Cabernets completed ripening during stormy conditions. Grapes swelled and botrytis began to occur. Vignerons needed patience and perseverance to harvest properly.

AND GRAPES:

KEYS TO SUCCESS

Vignerons needed to be consistently in the vineyards and the cellar this vintage. One needed to be hyper vigilant to protect the vines and grapes against disease. In the cellars, there needed to be rigorous sorting of the grapes (which I consistently heard from every Chateau). Wine makers needed to be acutely aware of preserving the freshness and brightness in the wines. Many long days and nights for the vignerons this vintage.

Vignerons that were proactive typically were able to produce good quality wine from this vintage.

OVERALL

White wines show extremely well in this vintage, so if you are a white Bordeaux fan then this is a vintage for you!

Red wines showed a lot of variation, especially on the Right Bank but there was still great quality produced from wines like Vieux Chateau Certan and Guillot-Clauzel. The Left Bank (and Cabernet Sauvignon) fared better with Pessac-Leognan showing some of the highest, consistent quality of the vintage.

Fruit flavors favor the redder fruits, but there is plenty of dark fruit flavors available on the Left Bank in Pauillac and Margaux.

Acid levels are higher while tannins are softer and maintainable.

Alcohol levels are also down with many vignerons producing wines under 13%.

Wines from 2024 are fresh and vibrant with an easy accessibility that will make this vintage drinkable in its youth and pricing is way down from the 2022’s (up to 50%) so there is a lot of value to be had if you look carefully.

This vintage will be short lived as the yields were down 20-30% for the most part but the pricing will be the saving grace as You and I will be easily able to afford to drink Classified Growth on a regular basis until the vintage is sold out.

So, I will buy some Branaire Ducru at the best price since 2014 and be extremely happy that I did!

BARLOW’S TOP WINES OF THE VINTAGE

1. CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD – BARLOW SCORE: 96/98 POINTS

96% Cabernet Sauvignon/3% Merlot/1% Petit Verdot  

Ripe red and black fruits on the nose. Silky and elegant palate of cassis, lavender, and violets with medium intensity. Amazing balance and precision with fine chalky tannins! TLC Textured~Layered~Complex

• CHATEAU HAUT BRION BLANC – BARLOW SCORE: 97/99 POINTS

56.1% Semillon/43.9% Sauvignon Blanc

Super floral with gobs of citrus and lemon zest popping into whiffs of honeysuckle and lilacs. Mid palate shows hints of lime and just a kiss of tropical fruit. Neon bright acidity throughout with an amazing mouth-watering finish. WOW!

• CHATEAU RAUZAN-SEGLA – BARLOW SCORE: 95/96 POINTS

63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon/34% Merlot/2% Petit Verdot/.05% Cabernet Franc with 50% new French oak for 18 months

Plush from the jump with dark fruits of raspberry and currant zinging into medium plus intensity. Dark chocolate and mocha flow freely into a long-refined finish. Fine, chalky tannins with purely integrated acidity. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex

• VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN – BARLOW SCORE: 96/97 POINTS

71% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc/9% Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium intensity on the nose with bright florals. Red fruits pop into the palate with violets and lavender laced into the fine, fresh tannins. Creamy core on the mid palate with excellent power and balance. Notes of tobacco and tea leaf show on the finish with neon fruit. YUM!

• CHATEAU CARMES HAUT BRION – BARLOW SCORE: 97/98 POINTS

48% Cabernet Franc/29% Cabernet Sauvignon/23% Merlot

Dense, dark color with sweet dark fruit on the nose. Neon dark fruit on the palate with plenty of raspberries, wild berries and black cherry. Hints of violets and tea leaf show in the mid palate. The finish exudes coco nips and currant with fine, chalky tannins. Extremely polished wine! WOW!

HONORABLE MENTIONS:

CHATEAU GUILLOT-CLAUZEL – BARLOW SCORE: 97/98 POINTS

80% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc

Plush and round from the start with delicious red and black fruit. Beautifully balanced acidity with medium intensity. Delightful notes of exotic spice on a long, enduring finish of raspberry tea and truffle. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex

CHATEAU HAUT BAILLY – BARLOW SCORE: 96/98 POINTS

58% Cabernet Sauvignon/40% Merlot/2% Cabernet Franc

Dark, dense fruit on the nose with medium intensity. Super purity of black cherry and currant here with a juicy, rambunctious mid palate. The finish is polished and fine with a long, pure finish.

CHATEAU LARCIS DUCASSE – BARLOW SCORE: 94/95 POINTS

85% Merlot/15% Cabernet FrancBright nose of violets and raspberries with medium intensity. Black cherry shows on a velvet mid palate and fine chalky tannins. Excellent structure with lavender and coco nips with hi

Thank you,

James C. Barlow, CWE, CSS

Spec’s Fine Wine Buyer

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

It’s that time of the year where I pour over my tasting notes of the thousands of wines that I’ve tried this year and compile a ‘TOP PICKS’ list for you all to ‘wow’ your friends, loved ones, and your cellar! My role expanded quite a bit this year as I took over buying of Bordeaux, Germany, Alsace, Austria, and Hungary in addition to my roles as the Domestic Fine Wine Buyer and Asia. It’s been a BUSY year to say the least! I haven’t had time to keep up with the ‘Thirteen Picks’ consistently, but hopefully you all have had the chance to join me at one of the many wine events we’ve held this year. My goal in the new year is to work on my wine writing more in 2025, so Thank You all for continuing to participate in this blog! As always, Find these selections at select Spec’s locations throughout the great state of Texas! Merry Christmas!

JAMES BARLOW’S TOP PICKS OF 2024

13. Chateau Croix Mouton Bordeaux Superieur Rouge 2018

Bordeaux, France

Cash Price $18.99 BUT ONLY

$11.97 ON SALE FOR THE MONTH OF DECEMBER!!!!

I have been a fan of Jean Philippe Janouiex’s wines for many years. I believe they are excellent quality while still keeping a value price point. Some of my favorite experiences in Bordeaux have been at his Chateau enjoying lunch with he and Francois Despagne as he cooked over an open fire as we enjoyed older vintages of Bordeaux and Armagnac. This wine was made specifically for the state of Texas as you’ll see a Longhorn on the front label to prove it! The wine is Merlot driven (97% Merlot/2.5% Cab Franc/.5% Petit Verdot) and offers juicy flavors of black cherry and plum with medium intensity. Notes of tobacco show through silky tannins with hints of cedar and exotic spice. Yum! Barlow Score: 90 Points

12. Kiona Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022

Columbia Valley, Washington State

Cash Price $18.99

I was quite pleased when JJ Williams (3rd generation proprietor) of Kiona Vineyards and I decided to partner together in Texas to sell his wines from the Iconic AVA Red Moutain which their family planted in the early 1970’s. Their Chenin Blanc was what originally perked my interest and led me to seek them out. JJ is an unpretentious gentlemen that enjoys letting each individual form their own opinion about the wines his family produces. I LOVE that! I actually re-tasted this wine at a dinner in Napa Valley not long ago and was reminded at just how SPEC-tacular it is! The 2022 vintage had a cool start but a warm finish which led to wines with vibrant acidity and lower alcohol levels. This Certified Sustainble wine is 78% Chenin Blanc from Old Vines planted in 1976 with smidges of Viognier, Roussanne, Gewurztraminer, and Sauvignon Blanc. Bright, zesty flavors of lychee, citrus, and orange blossoms pop exqisitely into the palate with medium plus acidity. Whiffs of hazelnut and white flowers flow throughout with a purity of fruit that shines from start to finish! Barlow Score: 93 Points

11. Domaine Weinbach Cuvee Theo Riesling 2022

Alsace, France

Cash Price $39.89

I was given the opportunity to become the Spec’s buyer for this small but mighty region earlier in the year and jumped at the opportunity. I have long adored the diversity of white wines in the region. As most of you know, I am an ardent fan of Riesling, so this was an easy transition. I had a goal to re-taste through many of the classic wineries that we were no longer offering. Domaine Weinbach was named after the little stream which runs through the property and planted with vines since the IXth century. It was established as a winery in 1612 by Capuchin friars. These vineyards, to this day surrounded by ancient walls, are specifically named Clos des Capucins. In addition to this, the estate’s history is well remembered through the image of a monk which fittingly adorns our labels. The wine is deliciously floral on the nose. Ripe flavors of white flowers, lychee, melon and citrus zing into the palate with mouth wateringly high acidity. Pithy notes of grapefruit and orange zest pop throughout the mid palate. The finish is clean and inviting with hints of petrol and more flowers. WOW! Barlow Score: 95 Points

10. Chapelle de Blagny Meursault ‘1er’ Cru Sous le Dos D’Ane 20200

Blagny, France

Cash Price $109.99

I visited Bourgogne earlier this year to attend Grands Jours de Bourgogne. One of the last nights we were there, it was recommended that we go visit a Domaine in the sleepy little hamlet of Blagny, which is a Cisterican heritage sight, and taste the wines of Chapelle de Blagny. We drove up to the top of a hill to the village of Blagny and were greeted by Etienne de Brechard. He took us through all of his vineyards and spoke of his passion to produce expressive wines from this unique terroir. Blagny has 20% of the ‘Premier Cru’ apellations of the communes of Meursault and Puligny Montrachet. The soils are made up of marl clay-limestone. These particular vines are situated in the highest part of the Premier Crus. This wine is 100% Chardonnay from 70 year old vines and aged for 12 months in 30% new French oak. The wine is rich and full while showing linear precision with delicious acidity. Flavors of green apples and frisky lemon zest flow densely into a broad, yet focused palate. The wine has medium intensity with licks of white flowers layering throughout a core of crushed rocks minerality. Beautifully balanced. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex. Barlow Score: 96 Points

9. Accendo Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Napa Valley, California

Cash Price $349.99

I met Greg Aurajo of Accendo Cellars in September with the full intention of tasting his wines and politely declining to purchase them because of their price tag. Then I tried this 100 Points (Vinous) 2018 Cabernet and realized that I would be doing my customers a disservice not to offer this to them. Then he offered to come back to town and taste through his portfolio with a select group of customers and I was sold! I immediately knew this would be one of my Top Picks of 2024 when I tasted it. Greg is the son of Bart and Daphne Araujo who are considered one of the most iconic Napa Valley couples. They farmed the famed Araujo vineyards and produced some of the most respected and Iconic wines until they sold to the Pinault family in 2013. The Araujo’s started Accendo Cellars in 2013 with Bart and Daphne’s children (Greg and Jaime) being involved. The wines exude the same passion and level of excellence that was shown at Araujo Vineyards. Accendo Cabernet is 85% Cabernet with hints of Cab Franc and Petit Verdot and was aged for 21 months in New French oak. The wine has a dark ruby core with touches of lavender on the nose. The palate is richly textured with black cherry and blackberry showing medium plus intensity. The mid palate is soft and silky with hints of blackberry compote and button mushrooms. The finish is long and integrated with hints of graphite, dark chocolate, and earthy minerals. Velvet complexity with an Iron Fist. Barlow Score: 98 Points

8. Cliff Lede ‘Poetry’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Stags Leap District, California

Cash Price $324.67

I had the pleasure of visiting Cliff Lede a couple of months ago in Napa Valley with some of my Spec’s crew. Jason Lede was a gracious host and personally tasted us through his portfolio in their cave. At my request, Jason happily opened a 2004 Poetry which was drinking Stunningly! Cliff Lede Vineyards was founded in 2002 by Cliff Lede following his acquisition of 60 acres in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley. He redesigned the vineyards so specifically and precisely to each soil type and exposure that to keep track of each block, he began to name them after his favorite rock songs and albums. So it’s not a surprise when you are in the vineyards walking through the ‘Dark Side of the Moon’! This wine is 89% Cabernet with smidges of Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Merlot to round out the assemblage and was aged in 80% new French oak for 21 months. Poetry is rich and intense with creamy blackberry and blueberry singing deftly through the medium plus intense core. The wine has a gorgeously silky mid palate of dark fruit that rounds into hints of pipe tobacco and exotic spice. The finish is long and voluptuous with hints of dusty cedar and rich dark chocolate. Barlow Score: 98 Points

7. Quintessa Red Blend 2021

Rutherford, California

Cash Price $249.84

Quintessa continues to impress consistently year after year. They practice bio-dynamic and organic farming, which makes it even harder in years that are trying. Quintessa sits on the eastern edge of Rutherford at the foot of the Vaca Mountain range. The vineyards are a mosaic of soils and micro-climates that allow the winery to offer a true kaleidoscope of complexity from the Rutherford AVA. The wine is 87% Cabernet with touches of Cab Franc, Carmenere, and Petit Verdot that was aged in 60% new French oak for 22 months. Rich, dense flavors of black cherry and blackberry flows into finely grained tannins and medium intensity. Notes of violets and blueberry cobbler sinew through the mid palate with whiffs of black pepper. The finish is extremely long and alluring, showing hints of toasted oak, dusty milk chocolate, and exotic spices. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex. Barlow Score: 99 Points

6. Chateau Siran Rouge 2021

Margaux, France

Cash Price $42.99

Chateaux Siran has been on my radar for several years now, but the wines seem to get better and better every time I taste a new vintage. Their property quite definitively should have been included in the 1855 Growth Classification, but the Toulouse-Lautrec family declined the inclusion for personal reasons. The family then sold the property to Leo Barbier in 1859. In 1885, the family called upon Frederic Miailhe to manage the vineyards. He immediately fell in love with the vines and devoted himself fully into the passion project. It has stayed in the family and is now run by Edouard Miailhhe since 2007. The Chateau sits amongst some of the finest properties in Margaux and is still an astoundingly well priced wine. The wine is 60% Cabernet/ 28% Merlot/ 11% Petit Verdot/ 1% Franc and was aged in 35% new French oak for 12 months. Cabernet Sauvignon specifically shined in the 2021 vintage, so this wine is showing the brilliance of Cabernet in the vintage. The wine exudes a plush brilliance from the first sup. The nose is delightfully floral with violets and roses. The palate offers neon raspberry and red cherries flavors with super fine, silky tannins and medium intensity. Notes of currant and cassis seep into the mid palate with hints of tea leaf and tobacco wafting throughout. The finish is long and deft with a vibrant juiciness bursting throughout. YUM! Barlow: 96 Points

5. Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron Rouge 2020

Pauillac, France

Cash Price $199.49

This Chateau has long been a favorite of mine. I love the brooding characteristics that usually show with these wines while keeping an undercurrent of finesse and complexity. This ‘Super Second’ is usually up there with my 1st Growth notes. This wine comes from the very oldest vines grown on the historic plots of the estate. Baron is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon/24% Merlot and aged for 18 months in 70% new French oak. This wine is stunning and breath-taking from the start. Dense and brooding flavors of blackberry and cassis reach into a core of blackberry compote with medium plus intensity. The mid palate continues with dark fruit that are enhanced by nuances of wet slate, graphite, and violets. The finish is extremely long and vibrant with touches of dark chocolate, cedar chest, and exotic spice. WOW! TLC Textured~Layered~Complex. Barlow Score: 98 Points

4. Dumol Estate Pinot Noir 2022

Russian River Valley, California

Cash Price $97.69

Dumol consistently continues to be one of my favorite Russian River properties with Andy Smith at the helm. The winery is 100% organically and dry farmed with high density vine planting. This all leads to the vines working hard to produce highly concentrated grapes which lead to very high quality wines. This wine is 100% Dumol Estate Vineyard from the Calera clone on vines with an average of 20 years of age. It is aged for 17 months in new 40% French oak. Lush and plush flavors of black cherry and boysenberry flow into violets with medium plus intensity. The mid palate has plenty of depth with hints of truffles, anise, and tobacco leaves while still complimenting the dark fruit component. The finish lingers expressively into dusty chocolate covered graham cracker and dried herbs. Will age exceedingly well! Barlow Score: 97 Points

3. Chateau Troplong Mondot Premier Grand Cru Classe B Rouge 2020

St. Emilion, France

Cash Price $139.99

Troplong Mondot has gone through a lot of changes over the past 10 years. They’ve had a complete overhaul in their winery, taking to time during Covid to pour millions of dollars in renovations and new state of the art wine making faciliites. They also have had a complete change in philosophy when it comes to making their wines. Troplong Mondot was long known for large, rich, exuberant (some would say ‘Over the Top’) wines with rich concentration and high alcohol. Their new philosophy is all about expressing terroir and the vintage while producing wines of balance and individual characteristics. I much prefer the ‘newer’ style of Troplong. I tasted the 2017 with Bear Dalton and both of us had an ‘AH HA’ moment that we didn’t expect. The wines were outstanding and they seem to be getting better with every vintage! This wine is 85% Merlot/13% Cabernet Sauvignon/2% Franc and was aged in 65% new French oak. The depth and purity of this wine is undeniable. Deliciously firm flavors of blackberry and black cherry show through amazing floral aromatics with medium intensity. Fine, ripe tannins show with hints of boysenberry, exotic spice, and a kiss of licorice. The finish is integrated and juicy with black fruit, shaved coco nips, and graphite which lingers on the palate for a delightfully long time. Barlow Score: 98 Points

2. Chimney Rock ‘Tomahawk Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Stags Leap District, California

Cash Price $159.99

I met Elizabeth Vianna, head winemaker for Chimney Rock, when she came to Houston for the awesome Terlato Terroir Tour. She, Laura Hughes of Sanford, and Michael Coode of Rutherford Hill showed off the diversity of terroir in California while offering some amazing wines in the process. Elizabeth has been the head winemaker of Chimney Rock since 2005. This year, her 2021 Stags Leap District Cabernet was named as the #5 Wine of the Year in Wine Spectator. While I did enjoy that wine immensely, the BY FAR Wine of the Evening was her Single Vineyard Tomahawk Cabernet Sauvignon. Her passion for producing Cabernet Sauvignon was evident as she talked with our customers. I am rarely ‘WOW’ed by a wine, but this beauty was a jaw dropper and made it quite clear that Vianna is one of the better winemakers of Cabernet Sauvignon in the valley. The Tomahawk Vineyard has become quite known for producing some of the best quality fruit in the entire Stags Leap District. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is showing a pure core of fruit with brilliant depth. Ripe, succulent flavors of cassis and black raspberry sinew easily into the medium plus intensity while offering an enveloping pomegranate plushness. Dusty herbs show throughout the mid palate with hints of anise, coco powder, and sweet tobacco running through the core. The finish is long and definitive with whiffs of sandalwood, graphite, and violets. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex. An absolute Stunner! Barlow Score: 99 Points

JAMES BARLOW’S TOP PICK OF 2024

1. Opus One Red Blend 2021

Oakville, California

Cash Price $432.24

I have had Opus One numerous times over the years and this may be the finest expression of Opus that I have ever had. Opus One is a unified vision of two families to produce the some of the finest wines that the world has to offer in the heart of the Oakville AVA in Napa Valley. Baron Philippe de Rothschild of 1st Growth Bordeaux fame partnered with the person that made Napa Valley what it is today, Robert Mondavi. Together, they set out to create a single wine dedicated to the pursuit of uncompromising quality. They wanted to create a Bordeaux-style wine in Napa Valley where they thought the region had the potential to make some of the world’s best wines. Opus was created in 1978 and the 1st vintage was made in 1979 and released in 1984. The wine was originally called Napamedoc, but was renamed Opus One in 1982. It immediately became one of Napa’s most premium (and expensive) wines produced. Opus One has long been considered a ‘California 1st Growth’ wine. The wine has a beautifully rich nose of violets and dark fruit. Densely textured flavors black cherry and blackberry flow into silky tannins with medium plus intensity. The mid palate is chalked full of cherry mocha and vanilla layered with currant and sweet spices. The finish is long and ethereal with whiffs of graphite, coco nips, coconut, and pipe tobacco. An Absolute Show Stopper! TLC Textured~Layered~Complex. Barlow Score: 99 Points

Thank You,

James C. Barlow, CWE, CSS

Spec’s Fine Wine Buyer

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

I am pleased to offer a RARE event with Greg Araujo (YES, THAT ARAUJO!) and the 100 Point wines of Accendo Cellars! We will be pouring the 2018 Cabernet which was rated 100 Points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous, who is notoriously stingy with his 100 Points critiques. I recently tasted these wines and immediately asked if he could come back and pour these dynamic wines to our customers. Seating is limited, so RSVP quickly as this is a guaranteed sell out!

The Araujo family is famous in Napa Valley for farming one of the most prized vineyards in all of Napa, Eisele Vineyard, for many years and making some of the best wines in the world from it.

What: An Evening with Greg Araujo of Accendo Cellars

When: Tuesday, November 12th from 6:30-8:00PM

Where: Vault & Vino 2512 Genesee Street, Houston, TX 77006

Cost: $50 per person

RSVP: Jamesbarlow@specsonline.com

Wines to be poured:

1. Accendo Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (94 Points by Vinous)
2. Accendo Laurea 2019 (94 Points by Vinous)
3. Accendo Laurea 2021 (96 Points by Dunnuck)
4. Accendo Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (100 Points by Vinous)
5. Accendo Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (98 Points by Robert Parker)

See you there!

James C. Barlow, CWE, CSS

Spec’s Fine Wine Buyer