AT THE MERCY OF GOD AND GRAPES: JAMES BARLOW’S 2024 BORDEAUX VINTAGE REPORT

I have just returned from spending two weeks in Bordeaux for the En Primeur campaign with my Spec’s crew. This vintage was imperative for us to taste at as many Chateau as possible as there was a fair amount of variation mainly throughout the Right Bank as Merlot struggled with early and late rains in the season which caused mildew, millerandage, and coulure issues in the vineyards. These issues led to a 20-30% reduction in yield for Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon, on the other hand, did not have nearly the same issues which led to really nice wines from the Left Bank and often more than usual Cabernet Sauvignon added into the wines on the Right Bank.

Lower yield didn’t necessarily mean lower quality, as some amazing wines have been made in this vintage. With around 30% price reduction almost across the board in Bordeaux, it is a PERFECT time to start stocking up on a vintage that is readily drinkable now but will also age for many years. It’s a vintage that the younger consumer can afford to fall in love with!

There is a lot of variation in quality from Chateau to Chateau and region to region so it was imperative to taste as much as possible at the Chateau.

That said, the wines of this vintage are expressive and well-balanced with a penchant for lower alcohol and vibrant acidity.

AT THE MERCY OF GOD:

THE WEATHER

Winter between January and March was rather mild, but the biggest issue of the vintage was that Bordeaux saw the highest rainfall since 2000 with 35 inches between October 1st and March 31st.  Rows became waterlogged, making it difficult for vignerons to efficiently do their work. Sprays and working the soil became complicated tasks which hindered the vineyards.

Spring offered early and even budding with vegetation growth slowed by the excess of water. The overall climate was cool and wet which caused flowering to be slow and uneven. Between May 22nd through June 13th there were definitive issues with Coulure and Millerandage in old or virus affected Merlot. There was also an unprecedented issue with Downy Mildew Pressure with early and aggressive outbreaks.

Summer led to an uneven and long drawn out Veraison from July 22nd to August 15th. Ripening occurred first in the summer weather conditions, then secondly in the stormy, rainy weather in Fall. Dry whites were picked mostly before the rains, so you will find some extremely high-quality white wines this vintage. Merlot was picked between September 18th through October 7th while Cabernets were harvested between the 30th of September through October 16th. Rain came once again on September 20th so both Merlot and Cabernets completed ripening during stormy conditions. Grapes swelled and botrytis began to occur. Vignerons needed patience and perseverance to harvest properly.

AND GRAPES:

KEYS TO SUCCESS

Vignerons needed to be consistently in the vineyards and the cellar this vintage. One needed to be hyper vigilant to protect the vines and grapes against disease. In the cellars, there needed to be rigorous sorting of the grapes (which I consistently heard from every Chateau). Wine makers needed to be acutely aware of preserving the freshness and brightness in the wines. Many long days and nights for the vignerons this vintage.

Vignerons that were proactive typically were able to produce good quality wine from this vintage.

OVERALL

White wines show extremely well in this vintage, so if you are a white Bordeaux fan then this is a vintage for you!

Red wines showed a lot of variation, especially on the Right Bank but there was still great quality produced from wines like Vieux Chateau Certan and Guillot-Clauzel. The Left Bank (and Cabernet Sauvignon) fared better with Pessac-Leognan showing some of the highest, consistent quality of the vintage.

Fruit flavors favor the redder fruits, but there is plenty of dark fruit flavors available on the Left Bank in Pauillac and Margaux.

Acid levels are higher while tannins are softer and maintainable.

Alcohol levels are also down with many vignerons producing wines under 13%.

Wines from 2024 are fresh and vibrant with an easy accessibility that will make this vintage drinkable in its youth and pricing is way down from the 2022’s (up to 50%) so there is a lot of value to be had if you look carefully.

This vintage will be short lived as the yields were down 20-30% for the most part but the pricing will be the saving grace as You and I will be easily able to afford to drink Classified Growth on a regular basis until the vintage is sold out.

So, I will buy some Branaire Ducru at the best price since 2014 and be extremely happy that I did!

BARLOW’S TOP WINES OF THE VINTAGE

  1. CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD – BARLOW SCORE: 96/98 POINTS

96% Cabernet Sauvignon/3% Merlot/1% Petit Verdot  

Ripe red and black fruits on the nose. Silky and elegant palate of cassis, lavender, and violets with medium intensity. Amazing balance and precision with fine chalky tannins! TLC Textured~Layered~Complex

  • CHATEAU HAUT BRION BLANC – BARLOW SCORE: 97/99 POINTS

56.1% Semillon/43.9% Sauvignon Blanc

Super floral with gobs of citrus and lemon zest popping into whiffs of honeysuckle and lilacs. Mid palate shows hints of lime and just a kiss of tropical fruit. Neon bright acidity throughout with an amazing mouth-watering finish. WOW!

  • CHATEAU RAUZAN-SEGLA – BARLOW SCORE: 95/96 POINTS

63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon/34% Merlot/2% Petit Verdot/.05% Cabernet Franc with 50% new French oak for 18 months

Plush from the jump with dark fruits of raspberry and currant zinging into medium plus intensity. Dark chocolate and mocha flow freely into a long-refined finish. Fine, chalky tannins with purely integrated acidity. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex

  • VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN – BARLOW SCORE: 96/97 POINTS

71% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc/9% Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium intensity on the nose with bright florals. Red fruits pop into the palate with violets and lavender laced into the fine, fresh tannins. Creamy core on the mid palate with excellent power and balance. Notes of tobacco and tea leaf show on the finish with neon fruit. YUM!

  • CHATEAU CARMES HAUT BRION – BARLOW SCORE: 97/98 POINTS

48% Cabernet Franc/29% Cabernet Sauvignon/23% Merlot

Dense, dark color with sweet dark fruit on the nose. Neon dark fruit on the palate with plenty of raspberries, wild berries and black cherry. Hints of violets and tea leaf show in the mid palate. The finish exudes coco nips and currant with fine, chalky tannins. Extremely polished wine! WOW!

HONORABLE MENTIONS:

CHATEAU GUILLOT-CLAUZEL – BARLOW SCORE: 97/98 POINTS

80% Merlot/20% Cabernet Franc

Plush and round from the start with delicious red and black fruit. Beautifully balanced acidity with medium intensity. Delightful notes of exotic spice on a long, enduring finish of raspberry tea and truffle. TLC Textured~Layered~Complex

CHATEAU HAUT BAILLY – BARLOW SCORE: 96/98 POINTS

58% Cabernet Sauvignon/40% Merlot/2% Cabernet Franc

Dark, dense fruit on the nose with medium intensity. Super purity of black cherry and currant here with a juicy, rambunctious mid palate. The finish is polished and fine with a long, pure finish.

CHATEAU LARCIS DUCASSE – BARLOW SCORE: 94/95 POINTS

85% Merlot/15% Cabernet FrancBright nose of violets and raspberries with medium intensity. Black cherry shows on a velvet mid palate and fine chalky tannins. Excellent structure with lavender and coco nips with hi

Thank you,

James C. Barlow, CWE, CSS

Spec’s Fine Wine Buyer

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1 Response to AT THE MERCY OF GOD AND GRAPES: JAMES BARLOW’S 2024 BORDEAUX VINTAGE REPORT

  1. Ashley Shaw's avatar Ashley Shaw says:

    Hi James! Thank you for this. Can you please add my friends (Stephen and Analiese) to your list that are copied here? Stephen is interested in a private tasting/party if you are willing.

    Eric and I are heartbroken that Rizzi is no more at Spec’s. We also need a new private “lesson”/ visit/ one on one advice soon.

    Cheers

    Ashley

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